![]() Based on this early observation I suspect that subjects with shiny parts are not suitable for focus stacking. Focus stacking is also used in landscape photography to get sharp images with extended depth of field. I believe that the problem is the bokeh of the foreground messing with the reconstruction software. In macro photography, the higher the magnification factor, the narrower the depth of field, so unless you want just one bit of the image to be sharp, you need to focus stack. It seems that the software tried to average the images and it turned out very wrong. So sometimes, there will be no possible way to get some areas with sharp detail - it's not a perfect algorithm and works better with some subjects than others.Įither clone in detail (maybe from a shot at f22), don't try and stack so deep, or live with it.Īnd just above the watch out from the '7' you'll spot a bit of background where it's similarly picked the sharpest bit it could find from the foreground blur of the watch - not what you want for the background, but easily fixed.īelow the watch there is a part that has a lot of artifacts. The interface is a bit difficult to get used to and comes with something of. This makes it suitable for photographers who often create stacked photos instead of a photographer that uses it only once in a while. Check your images - you'll see that the shots that would have had those regions in focus, can sometimes be obscured by the bokeh of foreground elements (the bokeh is bigger than the same infocus foreground element) Using the premium version of Helicon Focus will naturally provide you with more features and benefits, but it is not cheap. Blurred spots will occur if your areas of focus don't actually overlap.īut detail in the background, can sometimes always be blurred.
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